Thanks for your input. I checked over the wiring, and it is as follows:
One heavy (~10 gauge) blue wire goes from the starter solenoid to the ammeter. This then goes to the ignition switch. When cold, nearly 0 ohms resistance along it. One thinner (12-14 ga.) black wire comes off the same solenoid terminal as the thick wire. It goes to the third regulator terminal from the left (left being if the regulator were sitting upright and you had the terminals towards you). One thin red wire goes from the ignition switch to the Bat terminal on the coil and also splices off to the center terminal on the regulator. No resistance measured along it either. By the way, this is the only wire going to the Bat terminal of the coil. I should also mention that I checked the voltage off the Bat terminal of the coil with the ignition switch on and got about 11 volts. This all leads me to conclude that there is no resistor in the wiring, unless it is in my new coil (part no. 396547R93), so this coil should work, right? The mystery for me is how did the old "12V use with primary resistance wire or external resistor" coil work for so long? Thank You All Lon M
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Farmall M - by Staff. H so that mountable implements were interchaneable. The Farmall M was most popular with large-acreage row-crop farmers. It was powered by either a high-compression gas engine or a distillate version with lower compression. Options included the Lift-All hydraulic system, a belt pulley, PTO, rubber tires, starter, lights and a swinging drawbar. It could be ordered in the high-crop, wide-front or tricycle configurations. The high-crop version was called a Model MV.
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