The pump is supposed to be self-bleeding, thus no bleeder screws. That only works though if the fuel going into it is 100% air-free.
Keep in mind that the pump only runs at 1/2 engine speed, so an engine cranking at a normal 400 RPM is only turning the injection pump at 200 RPM. When a pump has some wear, and/or is a bit dried out, sometimes getting the cranking speed up will make a huge difference. Stanadyne pumps have their own rotary transfer pump built into the back of them. Those pump vanes are often the first thing to wear and cause starting problems after an engine has sat. That is especially true when run on low-lube diesel (miltary and some versions of low-sulfur at the pump).
Try hooking some extra batteries to the tractor (in parallel) and see if you can get your cranking voltage up. Even if it jumps from 9 volt to 10 volts, it will crank MUCH faster.
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Today's Featured Article - Pitfalls of Tractor Engine Rebuilds - by Chris Pratt. The first pop after you have put the machine together with your own hands is exciting and pleasing. The whole experience can be marred if one moves too fast and makes too many assumptions that they can just use "as is" some parts they should be closely scrutinizing and possibly attended to. In such cases, rework makes what could have been a fun project turn into an irritant or even a nightmare. Minor Irritants To give you an example of an minor but irritating proble
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