Re: Converting from R12 to R134 in AC on 1066

Posted by It'll work OK on June 22, 2000 at 15:42:16 from (207.177.47.155):

In Reply to: Converting from R12 to R134 in AC on 1066 posted by T16 on June 21, 2000 at 20:54:39:

T16- A two part reply here.

If you got a 1066 system like I think you got, be glad you didn't have to kiss the salesman after he... Never mind... It will work, but you got a garbage system... That design is an example of where I come from with my occasional comments about needing a "Time Machine & Killer Team". Anyway...

The coil and fans hanging out back of your cab are the condenser unit, where heat is wringed outta the freon and it condenses back to a liquid and goes on to the evaporator top front of the cab. That condenser unit is prone to plugging up with dirt, bird nests, corn stalks, and ??? it is. On top of that, those two fan motors seize up about ten minutes after you bought it and the condenser unit ceases to function.

I side stepped that whole mess on a 1466 job, by installing an ARA kit condenser coil from an old F-100 pickup. I mounted it in front of the OEM radiator and oil cooler and out of sight behind the stock radiator grille. I routed the compressor output out front to the new condenser coil and spliced that coil output into the line going back to the OEM condenser on top rear of the cab. The OEM condenser was still in the freon loop even though it wasn't doing anything. I un-pluged those two fans and left 'em be.

Now... The liquid freon then traveled the OEM route to the evaporator, the coil inside the cab that makes cold air. There was a big intake air filter on the front of that one, and you guessed it, it was plugged. I replaced that filter and found the evaporator blower was working OK.

I vacuum pump evacuated the system, confirmed no leak, then I did a slow & easy re-charge with R-12 'till a sight glass up on the rear condenser showed clear and no bubbles. Guage pressures read normal and the thing made cold air big time!

That was about 10 years ago and I've never heard any gripes. But, the guy don't run the 1466 much in hot weather, so he probably doesn't use the A/C much either.

Second part of reply- I've been quietly watching the R-134 scam play out for a long time. This spring I had 3 different trusted techs tell me that in dealing with units originally using R-12 to not change the oil, but to stay with the R-12 type oil. Then, you're not on the treadmill of replacing all the rubber parts and dessicant bag. Just make sure the system has the proper amount of the R-12 type oil.

Next, get a can tapper for the R-134 cans. Cut the new style outlet fitting off and install an old style fitting, so's you can charge with R-134 thru your R-12 equipment and into R-12 systems. You simply side step gobs and gobs of bravo sierra, and keep a bunch of money in your pocket at the same time!

So far this season, knock wood here, my old "Superb-un" is cooling just fine.

As I was told several times, if the new type oil is used you'll have leaking seals, rotting hoses, and rupturing dessicant bags.

If per chance the old type oil don't work out with the new type freon and the compressor shells out, my local junk yard has lots more of 'em at ten bucks a piece.

I was also told that if I had a seepey system, one that leaked off like a can of R-12 each year, I could expect the new stuff to leak faster and have to add more/sooner.

Hope this long winded telling helps you. good luck, IHank

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