You need to do several things. 1. The diff bearings (I am assuming they are tapered roller bearings) need to be set to the proper rolling drag. 2. The ring gear needs to be set to the proper location left to right. In some cases, numbers are stamped in the gears and diff case which will allow you make a calculation for the proper ring and pinion gear location. 3. The pinion bearings need to be set to the proper rolling drag. Again assuming they are tapered roller bearings. 4. The pinion needs to be shimmed to the proper fore aft position to give the proper pattern and lash. You will need a manual to get the bearing pre-load numbers, pattern location (it should be near the heel), and lash. Some mfrs use threaded quills to simplify the adjustment process. If yours are shimmed, it will take some time to get it right. Might want to consider paying the money to have set by someone with experience and tools.
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Today's Featured Article - Oil Bath Air Filters - by Chris Pratt. Some of us grew up thinking that an air filter was a paper thing that allowed air to pass while trapping dirt particles of a particles of a certain size. What a surprise to open up your first old tractor's air filter case and find a can that appears to be filled with the scrap metal swept from around a machine shop metal lathe. To top that off, you have a cup with oil in it ("why would you want to lubricate your carburetor?"). On closer examination (and some reading in a AC D-14 service manual), I found out that this is a pretty ingenious method of cleaning the air in the tractor's intake tract.
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