In order: The leak is from the pump seal (most likely) if it is coming out of the bottom of the castings. It can be replaced by removing the pump (not hard, but tippy (see archives on removing Liftall pumps) then removing drive coupling (lefty loosy using a brass or aluminum flat plate sticking in the pump gears to hold them from turning. (also in archives) Far could be from leakdown and filling of the top of the cylinders See below) fast is normal it has a small low pressure pump in the Liftall. The cylinders (one or both) may be leaking past the piston seals, letting it down, and filling the cylinder above the piston. It takes a while for it to be forced out the top, but it will do it. The valves are usually quite reliable in the pump, so leak down there is not common. A added reservoir may be needed when all else is sorted out to allow enough fluid to lift all the way. If the lift cylinders are two way, the tops can be plumbed into the bottom of the liftall pump through the drain plug with a 4way cross and a close nipple to allow draining and two hoses to connect. Correct on the control rod. There are many posts in the archives on putting live pumps on Ms. Yours will have both the correct timing cover and stronger gear for the live pump from a Stage II super M or SMTA, or 400 or 450 to be used between the distributor and front cover. Jim
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