The least expense, and best approach would be to make the following changes. With the battery not connected. 1}Remove the alternator and replace it with a 10SI rebuild negative ground from the parts store of your choice. (Not a one wire setup, but a standard 10SI.) 2}Change the wires on the amp meter from one side to the other. 3}Make sure the diode in the #1 Alt lead is placed such that the index band (marking on the diode) is toward the alternator, and the other end attaches to ignition source. Check the diode to assure it is passing current one way and not the other. (Ohm meter near zero one direction, and near infinity the other.) 4}attach a short wire from the #2 terminal to the out put stud of the Alt. (senses system voltage) 5}Switch the coil so that the Negative small terminal is attached to the distributor lead, and the Positive is attached to the ignition ballast resistor. 6}Reinstall the battery with negative ground. Run the tractor!
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Today's Featured Article - Oil Bath Air Filters - by Chris Pratt. Some of us grew up thinking that an air filter was a paper thing that allowed air to pass while trapping dirt particles of a particles of a certain size. What a surprise to open up your first old tractor's air filter case and find a can that appears to be filled with the scrap metal swept from around a machine shop metal lathe. To top that off, you have a cup with oil in it ("why would you want to lubricate your carburetor?"). On closer examination (and some reading in a AC D-14 service manual), I found out that this is a pretty ingenious method of cleaning the air in the tractor's intake tract.
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