"The second coil was 12v with an internal resistor."
NOT exactly. NO such thing as a modern 12 Volt coil with an INTERNAL resistor... they are simply wound with more wire, making them compatible with 12 Volts WITHOUT the need for a resistor, internal OR external.
Trouble is, it looks to me like the folks from "the land of almost right" are getting it WRONG sometimes nowadays and cheating a bit on the extra wire, making the coils draw more current and run hotter.
Also, if the charging system is putting out over 14 to 14.5 Volts, the coil will draw correspondingly more current.
A breaker point gap that is LESS than "spec" will result in more dwell = more coil heating, as well.
Are you set up to accurately measure primary ignition current... engine "OFF", ignition switch "ON", breaker points CLOSED?
If so, check that out. A typical measurement should be in the little-over-three Amps to about 4 Amps range.
A reading much lower than that will probably mean weak spark, hard starting, and possible misfire, and a reading OVER about 4 Amps is telling you your gonna have a HOT coil and shortened breaker point life.
If the reading IS over 4 Amps, you can try adding a ballast resistor (there are lots over different values out there) to get the current in the desired range. This MAY solve the problem IF the coil hasn't been permanently damaged by the overheating.
If so, you'll have to start over with another coil, and repeat the Amperage draw test to see where you're at.
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