When I restore my tractors, either it be a regular, f30, or f-12, I first pull the spark plugs, squirt in some oil, short the plug wires to the block and then belt up and run the engine for 10-15 minutes. I watch oil pressure, to make sure its up there. This way I pre-break in the engine without it under load.
After it is nice and free, I then install the plugs, add gas, and crank it over. Generally, they start right off.
IN my opinion, the E4A is a hotter spark than the F4. Either Mag is a great mag when they are in good working condiditon and set-up right. Take some old plugs, gap them out to 1/8", and test the spark jump. If they all fire, then the mag has enough power.
Make sure the mag is timed right. I set the advance in the middle, and adjust the mag coupler so the the mag fires (under the impusle trip) when the piston is just past top dead center. The engine starts easier, and I never have a kickback.
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Today's Featured Article - Oil Bath Air Filters - by Chris Pratt. Some of us grew up thinking that an air filter was a paper thing that allowed air to pass while trapping dirt particles of a particles of a certain size. What a surprise to open up your first old tractor's air filter case and find a can that appears to be filled with the scrap metal swept from around a machine shop metal lathe. To top that off, you have a cup with oil in it ("why would you want to lubricate your carburetor?"). On closer examination (and some reading in a AC D-14 service manual), I found out that this is a pretty ingenious method of cleaning the air in the tractor's intake tract.
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