I would much rather see you adjust the bearings to fit the actual crankshaft journal. Here is what I have done in the past on F20/Regular engines. With the piston/rod assemblies out of the engine, I take one by one and fit them to the crankshaft until I have found that with X number of shims on each side the crankshaft will not turn but with X+1 shims on each side of the rod the crankshaft will turn freely. Follow this procedure with each rod bearing in turn, once this is done, THEN install the pistons/rods into the engine and bolt them to the crankshaft. I have followed this procedure on two Regular engines that I have rebuilt and have found it to work the best.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Farmall M - by Staff. H so that mountable implements were interchaneable. The Farmall M was most popular with large-acreage row-crop farmers. It was powered by either a high-compression gas engine or a distillate version with lower compression. Options included the Lift-All hydraulic system, a belt pulley, PTO, rubber tires, starter, lights and a swinging drawbar. It could be ordered in the high-crop, wide-front or tricycle configurations. The high-crop version was called a Model MV.
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