A little confused here - is the steering housing still attached to the axle?
If so, it's 100x's easier to remove the axle first.
You need to pop out the 1" pivot pin and the axle comes right off.
There are two bolts that tighten to clamp against that pin - but it's very important you remove them completely before trying to drive the pin out - the pin itself is notched out to allow each of those bolts to hold the pin in place even if they come loose.
Once those two bolts are out - use a large center punch to punch the pin out - you don't need a press or anything fancy - BUT - be SURE to use a pointy object - and NOT something like a socket or other flat object to pound it out.
The metal is very soft and ductile - unless it's super loose to begin with, it WILL mushroom out in place and make for such a tight fit that it'll never come all the way out.
I've done this a couple times - and learned that lesson that hard way.
Using a center punch right in the middle keeps the deformation localalized around the punch - and the whole pin should come out with a good amount of pounding.
Once the pin's out it's obvious that the axle comes right off - then the steering arm is right there.
Now would be a good time to change all the seals and bearings while you're in there. There are kids for under $100 with everything you need.
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Today's Featured Article - Fabrication (Who Me? Make it myself?) - by Chris Pratt. First of all, what are the reasons for not fabricatin your own parts? Most judgements on what should be purchased rather than fabricated stem from: Originality - If the tractor restoration is to be 100% original, it is likely that you should spend the time and money to locate the component in the used or New-old-stock market. Since this can be extremely difficult, you may want to fabricate the item or purchase a modern replacement temporarily, but eventually, you s
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