My Grandfather (I am 72) was a pro mechanic from 1907 (motorcycles) until he died in 1973. In his lifetime he bought and resurrected hundreds of motorcycles, cars, tractors and pickups. The first item on the check sheet was "engine oil". The pan or bottom came off and was cleaned out. If there was sludge he did this. With any old oil added, the motor was brought up to temperature. Then shut down and and 20 % capacity oil draine d off. Then he added kerosene (on all farms then) to full capacity,, and the engine idled for 10 minutes. It was then drained whild still quite warm. Fresh oil and filter. Start and run and check the oil and it looked like a factory fresh engine. Nowadays, Gunk sells a quart of "engine cleaner" to add to your engine and run before changing oil. Same thing, it's nothing but diesel fuel. ATF would probably work as well but you really are trying to get that sludge viscosity down.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulic Basics - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In the last entry to this series we gave a brief overview of hydraulic system theory, its basic components and how it works. Now lets take a look at some general maintenance tips that will keep our system operating to its fullest potential. The two biggest enemies to a hydraulic system are dirt and water. Dirt can score the insides of cylinders, spool valves and pumps. Wate
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