If you can feel any ridge where the top ring stops in its upward travel the next step is to measure the taper. (difference between the least worn area at the bottom of the sleeve, and the deepest part of that groove at the top.) Measuring it requires telescopic bore gauges, or dial/digital cylinder bore tools. If the ridge is able to be felt, it will need to be reamed out of the top of the bore to get the pistons out. The rings will collapse as far as they can into the ring grooves, but they are often limited by carbon buildup under the ring in the groove that prevents them from compressing far enough. Things will break. New rings will hit the top under side of the ridge (if not removed) and make broken rings a reality. So, if a detectable ridge, and intent to do it once, buy a sleeve and piston kit and do it correctly At about 1000 for all and fluids, If no ridge, and it was not using excessive oil, just do the top end. By the way unless you mic the rod journals you will not know what size bearings to put in it. Jim
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Today's Featured Article - Oil Bath Air Filters - by Chris Pratt. Some of us grew up thinking that an air filter was a paper thing that allowed air to pass while trapping dirt particles of a particles of a certain size. What a surprise to open up your first old tractor's air filter case and find a can that appears to be filled with the scrap metal swept from around a machine shop metal lathe. To top that off, you have a cup with oil in it ("why would you want to lubricate your carburetor?"). On closer examination (and some reading in a AC D-14 service manual), I found out that this is a pretty ingenious method of cleaning the air in the tractor's intake tract.
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