If it has to go in more to make room for something like a seal then you will need to use something like a socket, a piece of pipe, a piece of tubing, solid rod, etc. to press it in further. Choose something that catches as much of the bushing as possible but is slightly smaller than the casting itself (You do not want your pusher press fitting into the casting). Sometimes you have to custom make something - especially on thin wall bushings. Scrap piles sometimes come in handy for projects like this, but I always start looking at my socket sets if I can.
On one thin wall yet large in diameter bearing; I was forced to remove a few thousands by free handing with a handheld grinder on the old bearing race so I could then use the old bearing to push in the new bearing (remove only enough material so the pusher no longer press fits into your casting). Of course less creativity, improvising, scrounging is required if you have access to a lathe. With a lathe any pusher can be accurately made in any exact diameter that you need.
If the bushing is already in the proper place within the casting yet the grease hole does not line up then all you can do now is drill a new hole in the bushing for the grease hole. Unless you think you can easily remove it and reline it up (which as hard as it sounds like it went in - I doubt you could remove it without damage).
This post was edited by rankrank1 at 09:23:19 09/27/13 5 times.
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Today's Featured Article - The Cletrac General GG and the BF Avery A - A Bit of History - by Mike Ballash. This article is a summary of what I have gathered up from various sources on the Gletrac General GG and the B. F. Avery model A tractors. I am quite sure that most of it is accurate. The General GG was made by the Cleveland Tractor Company (Cletrac) of Cleveland, Ohio. Originally the company was called the Cleveland Motor Plow Company which began in 1912, then the Cleveland Tractor Company (1917) and finally Cletrac.
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