Th Alternator that is on it is probably internally remade to be a "one Wire" install. The idea is that if the regulator is made to sense voltage internally all the time (never shuts off) it can start and operate with only the single output wire connected. It does work, but has two issues. one is that the continuous drain of being "on" can and does drain the battery when the unit is not operated for a period ranging from 5 days to a month (some conversions are better than others). The second issue is that they often require higher rotation speed to begin charging. Sometimes needing full throttle to begin charging. The consensus is that it is a OK method, but oly if the above issues are not a problem. I recommend that same alternator, or a Hitachi 14231 from a 86 Nissan D21 PU. They are wired as a three wire installation. The main output wire, a sensor wire S on the Hitachi, and #2 in a Delco 10SI) and a idiot light circuit. with a source of voltage coming from the ignition switch and having a resistor, or a bulb, or a diode in it to prevent the tractor from running when the switch is shut off. This source is 12gauge, and is hooked to the L terminal on the Hitachi, or #1 on the Delco. Note that the use of the ballast resistor for the coil is required if the coil is original 6v, or labeled with "for use with an external resistor" on the can of the coil. If this solves your issue let us know, or ask more questions. Jim
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Today's Featured Article - Identifying Tractor Noises - by Curtis Von Fange. Listening To Your Tractor : Part 3 - In this series we are continuing to learn the fine art of listening to our tractor in hopes of keeping it running longer. One particularly important facet is to hear and identify the particular noises that our
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