you maybe able to fix that dead spot on the throtal under the hood on the head where leakage has springs on it with 2 nuts , them springs may also be so weak they dont work , have had that problem myself in the past , the new spring is stronger even if its longer, so them upper springs need to bottom out befor throtal will respond , also how worn is the shaft on the govener arm coming out of the back side. if its worn like most, factory settings wont cut it need to compensate for that slop ,ive restored lots of H"s & M"s and every one seems to have a differant fix to the problem , youll have to play around to get it right, have one now that works fine but doesnt respond like it should has me scratching my head tryed lots of different settings and still dont work the way youd like it to respond in the field , my H has a home made throtal shaft from head to steering post with new upper springs and lock collars so it can be adjusted anywhere on shaft , that one works great as soon as the engine even thinks it needs more it responds & with a saw tooth handle it changes RPM on every tooth like it should , it takes some time & some playing around but youll get it , check them upper springs thow
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Today's Featured Article - Oil Bath Air Filters - by Chris Pratt. Some of us grew up thinking that an air filter was a paper thing that allowed air to pass while trapping dirt particles of a particles of a certain size. What a surprise to open up your first old tractor's air filter case and find a can that appears to be filled with the scrap metal swept from around a machine shop metal lathe. To top that off, you have a cup with oil in it ("why would you want to lubricate your carburetor?"). On closer examination (and some reading in a AC D-14 service manual), I found out that this is a pretty ingenious method of cleaning the air in the tractor's intake tract.
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