Yes, the main thing is that your distributor has to be well-grounded to the frame. On your 450, assuming it is still positive-ground, it means that you could eliminate all potential variables by running, at least temporarily, a ground from the distributor body to the frame or even to the positive post of the battery (again, assuming it is still wired positive-ground). The wire coming in with voltage for the coil will go to one side of the coil, and from that side to the other side, onto the post on the side of your distributor. And then, your ground wire, whether temporary or permanent, is a separate, different wire, from the distributor body to the frame (or positive post of the battery). I don't think it makes any difference whether the coil is grounded or not, I could be wrong. But if it is positive ground, you run your hot wire from the switch to the negative terminal of your coil, and from the positive terminal of your coil to the post on the side of the distributor. Note: if you are running a modern negative ground, the only difference is that you will run your hot wire from the switch to the positive post on the coil, and then from the negative terminal on your coil, to the post on the side of the distributor. As for you ground from the distributor body, here too, you would run your ground not to the positive, but to the negative terminal of the battery...why? Because if you have converted the tractor to negative ground, then to ground anything, including the distributor body, you must run it to the negative terminal on your battery. In any case, just make sure your distributor body has a good ground, because the distributor cannot do its job if the voltage coming into it can't get back to ground. My email is open, let me know if I can confuse you some more! Hugh
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