I've had to re-tighten the screws a couple times because the carburetor halves get loose, and then suck air. Kept me from starting the tractor at one point. Tightened the screws and it started right up. So the gasket between the two body halves has some damage to it. I'll need to adjust the float because there's some times where hand starting causes it to flood out. (I was having to hand start due to problems with the starter, starter has been rebuilt and works now). I'm also getting some leaks in the upper portion, and the governor tubes. Though, the governor tubes are leaking oil, not fuel.
Thanks for the info.
Speaking of floats, I just recently had to change the one on my late grandpa's John Deere A for not, floating. Kept flooding the tractor out trying to start it. Put a new float in, and started right up.
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Today's Featured Article - Oil Bath Air Filters - by Chris Pratt. Some of us grew up thinking that an air filter was a paper thing that allowed air to pass while trapping dirt particles of a particles of a certain size. What a surprise to open up your first old tractor's air filter case and find a can that appears to be filled with the scrap metal swept from around a machine shop metal lathe. To top that off, you have a cup with oil in it ("why would you want to lubricate your carburetor?"). On closer examination (and some reading in a AC D-14 service manual), I found out that this is a pretty ingenious method of cleaning the air in the tractor's intake tract.
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