Re: At my wits end with needle valves

Posted by Mr. Farmall A on May 18, 2014 at 21:32:22 from (68.32.185.8):

In Reply to: At my wits end with needle valves posted by gene bender on May 18, 2014 at 02:45:18:

[quote:345b908b61]You must no be using the little wire clip that attaches to the float so when the float drops the needle will open. Where are you getting parts. Ive been using the 10% blend for like 40yrs since its been here in IOWA i have several As and Bs with Zenith carbs and sure dont have the problems you do engines even set all winter in dirt floor shed and they will start in spring but they are in shape with good starting systems still on 6v just dont see why people have trouble then blame the gas. When i had a place in Colo at 10,000 ft near Gunnison tractor would start every spring after setting there all winter.[/quote:345b908b61]

[quote:345b908b61]Correct rest of the system isnt up to snuff so blame the gas. Got to remember the whole system needs to be up to par for good staring and running but its too easy to blame the gas. Just picked up a B that sat all winter started rite up and ran. He wanted it serviced for summer use and cooling system flushed new gen belt and just regular service still on 6v original system with cut-out i did rebuild the gen few yrs ago but he wants to make sure every thing is in shape. Afterall tractor is only60pluss yrs old so why wouldnt you want things in shape so it will do its job when you need it.[/quote:345b908b61]



I have been using the little wire clips, but with the air horn off the needle stick even with the weight of the floats pulling on it, have to shake it hard to unseat the needle. I have had E10 ruin needle valves in other engines from lawn mower motors to even my Chevy's 305. Thankfully Cliff Ruggles sells E10 proof parts for Qjets but not for tractor or lawn mower carbs.

As for my A, the tank is clean, new fuel strainer and fuel line, and brand new Zenith carburetor. Governor is adjusted correctly. Clean 30 weight oil in the air cleaner, made sure there is no gunk in the oil cap, etc. The A will run fine for a few days after changing the needle valve, then it will slowly start running poorer and poorer as the needle tip quickly degrades and becomes sticky. This is a problem I have seen many, many times. In your cases not having sticking problems with E10, sometines old needle vales that have only been exposed to E0 for a while become hardened and less prone to sticking when exposed to E10 than flesh needle valves.

The A has been upgraded to a 12 volt system with alternator and electronic ignition, new coil, rotor, wires, plugs, and cap. Valve adjustment was checked hot. Timing has been checked. Everything but the float system is okay.

I have tried parts from many different soruces and brands and they all stick. I have checked all my T's and dotted all the I's in the A, everything but the needle valves are up to snuff.

I never had any sticking needle valves until they introduced E10 and now just about every carbed engine I have suffers from it except for my Chevy 305 with a high end viton needle valve upgrade. Sadly every station in NJ only sells E10 by state mandate, probably to force us to buy new equipment and the state gets more sales tax.

My A starts up fine, it is at high revs or under load it starts giving me trouble unless it has a flesh needle valve just installed, then it runs under full load without skipping a beat until the valve degrades again, then it starts acting up again. I live in NJ and the gas here may be different than the gas in Iowa, a few stations here have been caught selling E20 labeled as E10, perhaps I should try out of state gas from PA?

Just to be clear, I have checked out everything and everything checks out except the needle valve. The tractor does run fine with a fleah valve installed, but after a few days the valves become sticky and the tractor surges under load. Replace the needle valve and it runs perfectly again. Trust me it is the needle valves degrading quickly because of the current E10 gas. Lots of people have had trouble with E10 from boats, to classic cars, to lawn mowers, to even classic tractors. What I need is a Zenith type needle valve that can stand up to E10 without sticking, pure and simple. I wish this wasn't the case but it is. No one seems to sell all brass or all metal needle valves, everyone only sells viton tipped valves and they all aren't very good viton like they sell for Qjets. I have been fighting this problem for 5 years now ever since the corn juice showed up.

This post was edited by Mr. Farmall A at 22:42:26 05/18/14 4 times.

Replies:

Add a Reply Name: E-Mail: Subject: Comments: Optional Link URL: Link Title: Optional Image URL: Optional Video Title: Optional Video URL: Email Notification: If you check this box, email will be sent to you whenever someone replies to this message. Your email address must be entered above to receive notification. This notification will be cancelled automatically after 2 weeks.   Advanced Posting Tools   Upload Photo  Select Gallery Photo  Attach Serial # List  Return to Post

TRACTOR PARTS	TRACTOR MANUALS

We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]