1) "Ok, I found the points and condenser. I don't think the points are opening. When I crank the tractor, I can not see the points move. Should I be able to see them move?"
YES as the engine is cranked the distributor shaft should rotate and the points open each time they come up on the high cam lobes. If they are not opening and closing she cant fire. See if you can adjust them to the proper gap on high cam lobe, that may cure the problem.
2) "The square shaft on the distributor has slightly rounded corners, not sharp corners. Should it be that way, or is there a point that that shaft should be replaced?
Yes rounded and NOT sharp is correct, as the high lobe passes it should open the points to the proper gap.
3) "Will new points have enough more meat to the surface that touches those corners that it may work?"
That rub area can wear down but Id suspect they may just need to be re gapped and that may cure the problem
4) I also see the coil says no external resistor is required. That means I can bypass that resistor and send 12v directly to the col, right?
RIGHT
If you work through my Troubleshooting Procedure it has a systematic method to determine the cause of no spark BUT SHE CANT FIRE UNLESS THE POINTS ARE CLOSING THEN OPENING ON THE HIGH CAM LOBES
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Today's Featured Article - Product Review: Lead Substitutes - by Mike Schordine. Lead was oriinally added to gasoline as an upper cylinder lubricant. It lubes the valves and seats. If you rebuild the motor, you could use hardened seats and valves, and unleaded fuel. But if your old tractor runs good, a simple lead substitute added to the gas is a perfectly reasonable solution. And, if you are like me, your tractor is under cover, but it sits outside. So with every temperature change, the humidity in the air collects in the fuel tank, in the form of water.
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