1 - Is the ammeter indeed working? Turn on the lights or ignition with the engine off. The ammeter should show discharge. If not, replace the ammeter. Alternatively use a voltmeter connected across the battery terminals to check alternator operation (12.6 volts or less = no charge; 13 volts or more = battery is charging.)
The ammeter is working, it reads discharge with the ignition switch on with the tractor running or not running. With the tractor off and the switch off it goes back to zero. I have used a volt meter across the battery terminals with the tractor on and off, it reads 12.6 either way.
2 - Check voltages at all 3 alternator terminals with the ign "on" and the engine stopped. You should see 12 volts at all 3. If not there's a wiring problem.
Have not tried this, but will do so.
3 - Could be the alternator is spinning too slow to "turn on" the regulator. Start the engine and run it up to maximum RPM for a couple seconds. If it starts charging it will continue to do so after you slow it back down. (This is normal for the 10SI alternator.....)
I did take the tractor out for a ride with it at full throttle in 4th gear, but the ammeter still read discharge.
4 - Verify the alternator is indeed good. With the engine running at half throttle, use a small screwdriver on the test tab inside the D-shaped hole in the rear of the alternator to ground it to the the alternator case (photo below). If the alternator now charges either the internal regulator is bad or there's a wiring problem.
Have not tried the test you mentioned and will do so. The first alternator I tried in there was from a junk car, but it was working while still in the car. The second one I tried was a freshly refurbished one from NAPA I know that does not necessarily mean it was good, but what are the odds both were bad?!?!?!
Thank you for the reply, I will try the 2 tests you mentioned next time I am near the tractor. Sadly it is currently 100 miles away so it will not be until next month or so. =)
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