1 - Is the ammeter indeed working? Turn on the lights or ignition with the engine off. The ammeter should show discharge. If not, replace the ammeter. Alternatively use a voltmeter connected across the battery terminals to check alternator operation (12.6 volts or less = no charge; 13 volts or more = battery is charging.)
2 - Check voltages at all 3 alternator terminals with the ign "on" and the engine stopped. You should see 12 volts at all 3. If not there's a wiring problem.
3 - Could be the alternator is spinning too slow to "turn on" the regulator. Start the engine and run it up to maximum RPM for a couple seconds. If it starts charging it will continue to do so after you slow it back down. (This is normal for the 10SI alternator.....)
4 - Verify the alternator is indeed good. With the engine running at half throttle, use a small screwdriver on the test tab inside the D-shaped hole in the rear of the alternator to ground it to the the alternator case (photo below). If the alternator now charges either the internal regulator is bad or there's a wiring problem.
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Today's Featured Article - Memories of a Farmall C - by Monty Bradley. When I was a child, my grandparents lived on a farm owned by a Mr. Walters. The crops raised were cotton and soybeans, with about forty head of mixed breed cattle. Mr. Walters owned two tractors then. A Farmall 300 on gasoline and a Farmall C, that had once belonged to his father-in-law, and had been converted from gasoline to LP Gas. Many times, as a small boy, I would cross the fence behind the house my grandparents lived in and walk down the turn row to where granddaddy would be cultivati
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1964 I-H 140 tractor with cultivators and sidedresser. Starts and runs good. Asking 2650. CALL RON AT 502-319-1952
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