If frozen (probable), heating the rearend and tranny is best. Putting tarps over the tractor and using a portable kerosene heater (looks like a jet engine on a fuel tank) will do it easily. It does not need to be huge if a tarp is used, be careful to keep the tarp from overheating (poly tarps are not best for this as they can easily melt) placing the heater about 4 to 5 feet away from the casting, behind the tractor will be pretty safe. Once it is unfrozen, the water will drain out first (if you do not drive it). Once it is drained, and the level is checked to be even 2 inches below the check plug, you can drive it. (it was the oil that you were using and won't hurt anything) There are 2 drain plugs one centered on the rear housing, and one at the trans. Both must be drained. (One fill place on the platform fills both) There is no need to put two fillings of oil in it. 80-90 GL-4 oil should be used, shop for it, it should not be that expensive. The level check plug should be near the clutch pedal shaft. Jim
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Today's Featured Article - Experimental Tractors Article - by Danny Bowes (Dsl). Tractor technology appears to have nearly hit it's pinnacle of development. If you agreed with the subtitle, you are rather mistaken. Quite, actually. As a matter of fact, some of the technology experimented with over 40 years ago makes today's tractor technology seem absolutely stale by comparison. Experimentation, from the most complex assembly to the most simple and mundane component, is as an integral a part of any farm tractor's development
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