Two things here before you start pulling those sleeves. Check the sleeve flange protrusion over the top of the block. You can do that with a simple feeler gauge and a flat chunk of iron. This is a reference to make sure the new ones don't protrude higher than old ones which has been a problem lately with new parts. Then make darn sure your pulling plate is not larger than the outside diameter of the old sleeve. It probably has thin wall sleeves already and they are only 1/16 in thick. Originals were l/8 inch t hick. You want your puller to be a few thousands of an inch smaller than the sleeve. Another thing, when you get the bores cleaned out good, try the new sleeves at same temperature as the block. They should start into the bore a little ways. I always select the best fitting sleeve for each bore. Some will be looser and some tighter. Then you can freeze them if you like, I never do because I want to know how hard that sleeve fits into the bore. Too tight, no good, too loose, no good.
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Today's Featured Article - Oil Bath Air Filters - by Chris Pratt. Some of us grew up thinking that an air filter was a paper thing that allowed air to pass while trapping dirt particles of a particles of a certain size. What a surprise to open up your first old tractor's air filter case and find a can that appears to be filled with the scrap metal swept from around a machine shop metal lathe. To top that off, you have a cup with oil in it ("why would you want to lubricate your carburetor?"). On closer examination (and some reading in a AC D-14 service manual), I found out that this is a pretty ingenious method of cleaning the air in the tractor's intake tract.
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