Whew. The first check I would make is to see if the amp meter (open to the air, and subjected to a fair load with an alternator) is still good. With the lead to the starter switch disconnected use an ohm meter across the terminals of the meter. If infinite ohms it it toast and probably 100% of the problem. If zero ohms, it is probably good. Next, assuming the above had zero ohms, Rehook the wire to the amp gauge and test the meter for voltage on both sides, once with the lights on, and once with them off. If the load side with the lights on has no voltage, the amp gauge is bad. If no different but no lights, the fuse could be blown on the light switch, or bad wiring/terminal connection at the switch. Fix that. If the ignition switch has voltage to the supply side, it should also have voltage to the ballast resistor side when on. Check to assure it does. If not correct that. Check voltage at the ballast resistor with the switch on/ If volts, test the other side for volts. no volts fix it. A three wire application of a 10si requires a 10 watt resistor across the LED style dash lamp. A LED does not supply enough current to work. Jim
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Today's Featured Article - Talk of the Town: Winterizing Engines - To Drain or Not to Drain? - by Russ Berry. What is this strange attraction I have to equipment and machinery? How did I get this way? I came from the suburbs and own a small horse farm in rural Loudoun County, Virginia. You can call me a "weekend farmer." The local farmers do. Does it bother me? No. I am just happy to have their friendship. At least the word "farmer" is in my title. But what is the attraction? How can I explain the sensation and exhilaration I feel when I turn the key and hear the engine come to life (most
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