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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Board

Re: Coolant - Extended Discussion - Brian


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Posted by Brian Schmidt on March 08, 2015 at 19:14:13 from (72.25.26.58):

In Reply to: Coolant - Extended Discussion - Brian posted by Jim Becker on March 07, 2015 at 19:24:16:

Hello Jim!!

Attached is a link to one on eBay buy it now for
$25 with $7.50 shipping. That was just one quick
search. There may be other local sources. I know
Advance Auto has them for like $50.

Yea the floating ball testers are junk. They tell
very little about the actual freeze point of
coolant. There is a lot that can change the
reading.

As far as checking with a voltmeter...
Personally, I think that is pretty much a waste of
time. You can see stray voltage in a brand new
system and never have issues. The dissimilar
metals and the type of coolant can have an impact
on this. I have also typically found that a
cooling system has to heat cycle a few times in a
virgin system to allow the passivation of the
metals preventing this electrolysis from
occurring. In an old system like we are talking
about here, there isn't much to be concerned with.
The measurement practices and the materials used
for the actual probes can have an impact on the
readings. I wouldn't bother with it.

As for extended life coolants, caution must be
taken using the widely available ones in systems
not designed for them. Dex-Cool for example is
NOT compatible with older cooling systems designed
for traditional 2 year coolant technology. The
issue is the elastomers used in the gaskets and
seals. The formulation will attack these causing
them to shrink and harden. When the clamping
force is lost, leaks occur. It was very common in
the 90s and later for GM cars to have head and
intake manifold gasket leaks. This was the reason
for the leaks.

Whenever I have a system that has Dex-Cool in it,
I drain and flush it right away and replace the
coolant with my extended life coolant. As the
engineer that developed this technology at JD, I
can tell you that the formulation JD Cool-Gard II
is top notch. It will not have issues with older
cooling systems. I run it in all my cars and
tractors that I have rebuilt. If it is a tractor
that I haven't gone through yet, I will just keep
the freeze point in line with whatever coolant is
available easily. This is typically Zerex or
whatever. Super Tech is fine too as long as it
isn't extended life coolant...

As for the ones that say they are universal and
can be added to anything, I would tread lightly
there. This is a pretty bold statement to make by
a coolant manufacturer. There can be issues that
arise. I would try to stay away from mixing
coolants in a system you have much invested in or
care much for....

Diesel engines that have wet cylinder liners have
cavitation pitting issues on the thrust side of
the liner. This is due to the combustion
pressure, firing frequency, cooling system
pressure, sliding friction and liner to block fit.
The wall actually moves back and forth like a bell
ringing. Every time it retracts, the low pressure
zone causes cavitation bubbles to form and burst.
When they burst, it blasts away at metal on the
surface. It wasn't uncommon to see an engine
exhibit issues with coolant in the power cylinder
within the first oil change when the wrong coolant
was used at a rebuild.

To combat this, historically, nitrite was used in
HD coolants. This would get consumed quickly
during operation passivating the liner surfaces.
So a supplemental coolant additive containing
nitrite was developed. Annually this would be
added to coolant to restore the protection.
Later, manufacturers developed dosing filters that
introduced the nitrite during operation so
operators didn't need to remember to add it.

Today, organic coolant additives are used in more
advanced coolants to prevent liner cavitation.
These are in drastically higher concentration and
do not require annual maintenance to retain their
ability to protect. Many of the coolant filters
have been removed for cost reasons.

So if you want a good extended life coolant for
any cooling system, visit your local JD dealer and
buy Cool-Gard II. It comes in concentrate or pre-
mix. It will give you 6 years or 6000 hours of
operation trouble free. You can check it with the
test strips, but you will find that noting is
needed.

I hate promoting on here, but it is a good product
and there are so many out there to stay away from,
it is hard not to promote a good product.

If you have any other questions, please feel free
to ask....



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