a) The coil is a NAPA ic14sb and there is no external ballast resistor. I'm on the 3rd one.
b) with the engine running, the alternator is putting out 14.3 volts (measured with a Fluke 117 multi-meter). I'm on the second one.
THAT VOLTAGE SEEMS FINE AND AROUND NORMAL
c) With a cold coil and tractor not running the resistance across the coil is 3.4 ohm using the same fluke meter.
SOUNDS LIKE ITS A 12 VOLT COIL IE NO BAllAST SHOULD BE NEEDED
d) When the tractor cuts out I notice the amp meter is 2/3 of the way between zero and 'D'. Something seems to be pulling mucho amps at that time.
COULD BE A SHORT SOMEWHERE OR A FAULTY VOLTAGE REGULATOR/ALTERNATOR IS DRAWING EXCESS CURRENT AND DROPPING BATTERY VOLTAGE SO LOW A WEAK SPARK MIGHT RESULT
Will swapping out the electronic ignition provide any logical / conceivable benefit?
I DONT THINK THE ELEC SWITCH IS THE PROBLEM BUT A SHORT SOMEWHERE CAUSING EXCESS CURRENT FLOW AND REDUCED VOLTAGE MAY BE????
Since it appears to be a 12 volt coil I cant explain why its overheating unless the switch is staying closed for such a long duty cycle that's overheating the coil SO PERHAPS THE SWITCH IS THE PROBLEM DESPITE MY THOUGHTS JUST ABOVE. If it stays closed a long time that could explain coil overheat and ignition failure.
BEST GUESSES 1) Alternator or Voltage Regulator is faulty causing a short reducing coil voltage causing weak spark
2) BUT if the coil is overheating and its a 12 volt coil and the Voltage Regulator and Alternator are all okay PERHAPS THE SWITCH IS FAILING AND REMAINING CLOSED WHICH WOULD OVERHEAT THE COIL PLUS CAUSE NO FIRING
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