Cooling and Fuel Systems, Hoses and Belts
Our tractor is coming right along. The old oil and filter has been
taken to the recycler and the air filter replacement has breathed new
life into our motor. Let's take a closer look, now, at the cooling
system since it has to work so hard in the summer heat.
Cooling systems can be real cantankerous in their old age. Radiator
cores clog up with rust, lime or other mineral deposits and the fins
clog up with weed seeds and debris. The metal headers slowly corrode
away from years of use and the seams seem to always be moist with
residual antifreeze. On hot days the radiator cap bellows out a
stream of steam and reminds one of an old model T along side the road
with an overheated engine. So how can we recognize potential problems
and catch them before they happen?
The radiator, usually at the front of the tractor, is a good place to
start. Check the front and rear for a build up of bugs, seeds, and
weeds from the pasture. Water from a garden hose sprayed from the fan
side of the radiator will remove a lot of the built up debris. Next
check for moisture around the radiator core and headers. If there is
leakage it will be moist and smell sweet. If ther is leakage it would
be wise to have the radiator professionally flow tested and checked
for lime buildup and core leakage. Next, remove the radiator cap and
inspect its bottom. The cap is designed to raise the pressure in the
cooling system so the coolant boils at a higher temperature. Each
pound of pressure raises the boiling point by 3 degrees. A six pound
pressure cap would raise the boiling point of the coolant by eighteen
degrees, or from 212 degrees to 230 degrees. Make sure and check the
manual for the proper pressure cap as one that is too high has a
tendency to blow hoses and radiator cores. The bottom of the cap
should be clean and must fit snugly onto the filler neck. Check the
rubber bottom for swelling, nicks, or cracks. Also check the brass
filler neck for uniformity on the sealing surfaces. A warp or
hairline crack will cause pressure to leak out when in use.
Before continuing with our antifreeze inspection it is wise to check
all the cooling system hoses. Hoses that are hard, brittle or cracked
need to be replaced. On other hoses look for small patches of moisture
on the hose surface and then gently knead that area and hunt for a
hairline crack or pinhole. These areas tend to leak only when the
tractor is at operating temperature and under pressure and can be
difficult to notice. When leaking, though, they can shoot a
hair-sized stream of hot antifreeze onto electrical parts and cause
engine misfiring. Look for hoses that have swelled up because of oil
contamination. They feel greasy and spongy when kneaded. Replace any
hoses that are marginal. It's good to change the hose clamps also as
dirt and grit can make them hard to properly torque. Also make sure
and purchase the correct hose size. A hose that is too big or too
small will only cause problems at a later date, especially if a
sealing compound like silicone is used to try to water tighten a
connection.
Antifreeze, nowadays, is a mixture of ethylene glycol and water. It
used to be a mix of ethyl or methyl alcohol and water. With
technological advances and different sealing compounds along with
higher engine temperatures the alcohol mix became antiquated as it
would evaporate or not provide adequate internal part protection in
regular use. Pure ethylene glycol works as a catalyst when mixed with
water. In its pure state it freezes around nine below zero but when
mixed in proper proportions with water it will provide protection up
to 50 or so below zero. In addition to freezing protection the
solution provides a chemical soup of internal engine protectors. It
contains a rust retardant, particle suspension compounds, a lubricant
for the water pump seals and bushings, and corrosion resistors. When
these chemical compounds wear out the antifreeze will change color
and/or get cloudy. A rusty antifreeze color, for example, means that
the rust inhibitor has lived its useful life. Examine the color of
the antifreeze compound in the unit you are inspecting. It needs to
be a clean and green. Take a temperature tester and see what the
freezing point is. If the antifreeze has been in the unit for more
than three years it is a good idea to replace it. Changing the stuff
isn't that big a deal. Drain the radiator contents into a container.
Make sure not to spill any because the dog will love the sweet taste
but it is highly toxic if ingested. Also find the drain cock on the
side of the engine and drain the extra few quarts out of the block.
Re tighten the block drain and refill the radiator with fresh
antifreeze and, preferably, distilled water (this will reduce mineral
buildup over time since it is relatively mineral free).
If working on a budget, like most of us do-it-yourselfers do, you
might consider filtering out your old antifreeze. I made a filter out
of some gravel, coarse sand, filter paper and cotton. It took a while
for the solution to filter but when it came out the other end it
looked great. But don't stop with just the filtered antifreeze. Get
some litmus paper to see what the acidic content is and then get some
antifreeze suplement at the auto store. This stuff has the additives
in a mix that can be added to the old filtered antifreeze that will
give it some additional lifespan. Like I said, it is a budget measure.
Time to check the belts on the engine. Most tractors will only have
one, at most two belts. They usually run the fan/water pump assembly
and generator. Grasp each drive belt and roll it around so that the
bottom and one side are clearly visible. Look for signs of cracking,
oil soaking, hard glazed contact surface, splitting or fraying.
Replace any belt showing these signs. Make sure when installing new
belts or when retightening old ones to get the correct belt tension.
A belt too tight will cause premature wear on the bearings; a belt too
loose will squeal, flap, and cause other unit problems.
One last tidbit to check on this section is the fuel filter. This
often neglected item can cause no end to an engine running funny.
When plugged it will lean out the fuel mixture and cause backfiring,
spitting, and misfiring. When the engine dies back pressure from
expanding vapor from the fuel pump will push debris from the filter
back into the tank and let fuel flow freely....for a little bit. The
engine will start up and run like normal until debris, once again,
finds its way back into the filter element. If suspect, replace. It
is a very low cost item. Also check the fuel hoses, if rubber, for
kinking, pinching from tight bends, or internal swelling due to using
a hose that is non compatible with gasoline. Also check to see if a
fuel line is running near an exhaust manifold or pipe. The extra heat
will sometimes cause a vaporizing problem on hot days where the fuel
will turn to a gas in the line and cause the fuel circuit to 'vapor
lock', or stop delivering fuel to the carb. If this happens a
wrapping of aluminum foil around the fuel line and attached with bread
twisties will reflect the radiated heat and help alleviate the problem.
Contributing Author - Curtis Von Fange
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