The T-105s are supposed to be kept on float. The good chargers often used in solar-banks use float just like any other good maintenance charger. But . . . they also have an "equalize" mode that is supposed to be used every now and then. On my large banks, I equalize once every six months. "Equalize" is basically an overcharge that really gets them boiling for an hour. With a large bank, you need a huge charger to do it. Often 100-200 amps. They also often have a battery temp sensor and will shut down when the batteries get too hot. This isn't an issue with RVs that just have a pair of deep-cycle batteries.
I've got two T-105s in an RV. When driving they get charged with an unaltered Delco 12SI automotive alternator. When the engine starts, a relay ties in my RV batteries to my starting batteries. NOTE that auto batteries get charged at a slightly lower voltage so when used on deep-cycle batteries they never really get fully charged. Only up to 95%. No big deal. When you're parked and have access to 120 AC grid power - you can use an on-board charger made for them if wanted. I've experimented a lot and found a good marine "float" charger works the best if you've just got a pair of 6 volt batteries. I'm using the Guest Charge-Pro marine two-output charger, # 2611. My RV is diesel and has two 12 volt starting batteries along with two 6 volt RV batteries. This charger has one 12 volt ouput hooked to the starting batteries and the other 12 volt output hooked to the Trojan RV batteries. It can put out 10 amps total, but can allocate when needed. I.e. it can send a full 10 amps to just one pair of batteries, or 5 amps each, or if all are charged . . . just maintain them in float. It is by far the best maintenance charger I've ever had.
There are no set rules when it comes to what is, and what is NOT a true deep-cycle battery. That being said, among people who work with battery banks all the time, the T-105 is considered sort-of "half way there." Pretty HD, much better then a car battery, but not as rugged as a "true" deep-cycle battery. Trojans got real popular years back because many golf courses used them in golf-carts. So, often you could order through your local golf course and avoid shipping charges.
L16 is considered by many to be Trojans "true" deep cycle battery. But as I said eariler - the main thing is cost per watt over time. For years, the T-105 Trojans or Deka GC-15s were the leaders. Rolls-Surette have always been the #1 battery for quality but . . . is it worth paying twice as much for a battery that lasts 30% longer? Not to me.
A few general specs:
Trojan T-105: aver. life of 4-5 years, but many last to 8. When discharged over and over to 80%, it's rated to last 500 cycles before it's junk. 220 AH
Trojan L-16: aver. life of 5-7 years, but many last to 10. When discharged over and over to 80%, it's rated to last 700 cycles before it's junk.
Rolls-Surrette L-16: aver. life of 10 years, but many last to 13. When discharged over and over to 80%, it's rated to last 900 cycles before it's junk.
Rolls-Surrette S-530: aver. life of 10 years, but many last to 13. When discharged over and over to 80%, it's rated to last 900 cycles before it's junk.
Rolls-Surrette 6CS-25PS: aver. life of 20 years, but many last to 25. When discharged over and over to 80%, it's rated to last 2000 cycles before it's junk.
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Today's Featured Article - When Push Comes to Shove - by Dave Patterson. When I was a “kid” (still am to a deree) about two I guess, my parents couldn’t find me one day. They were horrified (we lived by the railroad), my mother thought the worst: "He’s been run over by a train, he’s gone forever!" Where did they find me? Perched up on the seat of the tractor. I’d probably plowed about 3000 acres (in my head anyway) by the time they found me. This is where my love for tractors started and has only gotten worse in my tender 50 yrs on this “green planet”. I’m par
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