A carb will heat soak on an engine and the mechanical pump will also heat the fuel. With the OEM pump and carb there is not much that can be done. I would put an electric fuel pump on the firewall, or near the fuel tank. Then I would re route the fuel line so it goes directly to the fire wall and down. Putting heater hose over the fuel line insulates it further. Make sure the carb heat stove system on the air cleaner is not turning on, allowing the intake to draw air from around the exhaust manifold. My preference is to put a "summer" aircleaner on it with a snorkel that draws cold air from beside the radiator or other non heated air. Many times a ducted fan can be used to direct cool air on the carb from the front. This can be switch controlled from the cab to allow situational use. Winter grade gasoline is still in the pipeline and tanks at gas stations. It is substantially higher in volitiles and will vaporlock much easier. I know of no fuel solutions or gimicks that work. I have used all of the above methods at one tome or in combination to cure (successfully) vapor lock. These are not snake oil magnet on the line garbage. Jim
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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