A carb will heat soak on an engine and the mechanical pump will also heat the fuel. With the OEM pump and carb there is not much that can be done. I would put an electric fuel pump on the firewall, or near the fuel tank. Then I would re route the fuel line so it goes directly to the fire wall and down. Putting heater hose over the fuel line insulates it further. Make sure the carb heat stove system on the air cleaner is not turning on, allowing the intake to draw air from around the exhaust manifold. My preference is to put a "summer" aircleaner on it with a snorkel that draws cold air from beside the radiator or other non heated air. Many times a ducted fan can be used to direct cool air on the carb from the front. This can be switch controlled from the cab to allow situational use. Winter grade gasoline is still in the pipeline and tanks at gas stations. It is substantially higher in volitiles and will vaporlock much easier. I know of no fuel solutions or gimicks that work. I have used all of the above methods at one tome or in combination to cure (successfully) vapor lock. These are not snake oil magnet on the line garbage. Jim
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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