Are you saying the keyseat is too long? or too deep? If you measure across the keyseat to the bottom of the seat, for a 3/16" key (.1875"), it should measure 3/32 (.0938) or a little deeper. The average guy doen't have the proper tools to measure things like this but if you have a dial caliper you can check it.
I would be more concerned that the key seat is worn, and if that's the case you'd be better off making a new shaft or welding up the end and having a new key seat cut. Preferably a woodruff key that won't work out. If that's the case then I'd also get a new coupler sprocket, lovejoy coupler, or whatever couples the pump the the shaft.
If there is just a space above the key when the shaft and coupler are together, a set screw above it will hold it down and that's how most are done. Then the key can't wiggle and wallow out the slot, and it stays in place.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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