Both the drive shaft and pump where brand new, only 4 months old before the key sheared.
Yes, the key seat depth in the drive shaft is too deep, thus allowing the key to work itself out.
It would cost more to go to a machine shop than to get a new pump...I think I'll try some steel (not stainless) rectangular key stock and see if I can get it to work.
The key that came out was a rounded edge or feathered square key...it was oversized, and these feathered keys are not suppose to come out or need to be held in place with a set screw. Thanks for the replies and please post more advice if you have it.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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