Lou, with bluing preparation is the key. What you ahve to do is to remove ANY trace of oils, vanish, grease, anything that will get between the metal and the bluing. The way we cold blued guns at the shop was to degrease with mineral spirits and a scrub brush followed by a second rub down with either clean mineral spirits or a spray with ether. (BE CAREFUL! FLAMABLE!!!) Then we would take fresh 4/0 steel wool and degrease that thoroughly. Steel wool comes with preservative oils on it. Get it really clean and rub the metal down with the SW lubed with fresh mineral spirits or acetone. (Don't worry about the 4/0 steel wool hurting the finish, It's what the gunsmith uses to polish the barrel before he blues it.) Then we'd immediately start applying the cold blue with a fresh cotton ball or even a paper towel. Let the blue work for a few minutes and then start polishing the metal. Honest truth, either 4/0 steel wool or those coarse brown paper towels like you used to get in the mens room at a truck stop worked best. See if there are streaks or uneven spots to the blue. If there are, degrease some more and repeat. When you get an even blue/black appearance only then can you go to the oiling. All this has to be done fairly quickly because bluing is actually a form of rust and if you leave it unprotected over night you run a real good risk of having a rusty gun in the morning. You have the option of repeating the cold blue application several times.
Cold blue won't always last as well as hot blue, but if you keep it oiled it lasts surprisingly well. Getting it to match the factory blue is very difficult. Some cold blues will "freckle" when applied over factory and some will be several shades lighter or darker or more blue or purple or brown than black. I've never used the product you mention. My favorite was a Brownells product called Oxpho IIRC. THey had another called Dicropan or something that was good too.
Oh yeah, warm the metal with a blow drier before you apply the blue, it seems to make all kinds work a lot better.
This post was edited by Bret4207 at 15:47:15 12/22/12.
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Today's Featured Article - Earthmaster Project Progress Just a little update on my Earthmaster......it's back from the dead! I pulled the head, and soaked the stuck valves with mystery oil overnight, re-installed the head, and bingo, the compression returned. But alas, my carb foiled me again, it would fire a second then flood out. After numerous dead ends for a replacement carb, I went to work fixing mine.I soldered new floats on the float arm, they came from an old motorcycle carb, replaced the packing on the throttle shaft with o-rings, cut new ga
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