Best way is to take a ride out of salt country, go down to Florida, or any of the southern or south western states, and buy something there, and bring it home. Then, if it runs good, contact a Ziebart shop that applies that product, and have them do one of their good rust-proofing jobs on it. My son does that type of rust-proofing, for Zeibart, and if done correctly, it will extend the life of your vehicle. But, if you don"t have that stuff applied, expect rust to show about 2 years after you start driving it in salt country! I bought a new Ford truck, in 1976, and i used an oil spray gun to coat everything with 30w motor oil! Drove it 6 years, winter and summer, and no rust on any body part, including the rear quarter panels around the wheel openings, also the front fenders.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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