The BAT wire from your "1 wire" alternator goes to one post on the ammeter, the same post as the ignition switch and light switch connect to. The other ammeter post connects to the battery, likely at the starter switch. The alternator must be connected through the ammeter to give you a charge indicator.
Do you really have a 110 amp "1wire"alternator ?? If so, I would ask why did you get one that large? A 110 amp alternator is too large for the wiring and ammeter on your tractor. Also a 37 amp "1 wire alternator will excite(start charging) at less than 1/2 the rpm of a 60, 72 or 110 amp 1 wire alternator. Your tractor engine may not run fast enough to excite a high amp "1 wire " alternator. If you do have a very high amp "1 wire" alternator, I would exchange it for a 37 amp model, it will serve you much better unless you have a very large electrical accessory load that requires that many amps. I fault the parts store for only wstocking very large amp "1 wire" alternators. They can often stock only the large ones, as they can substitute a larg alternator for a small alternator application. Fine for a high rpm automotive engine, but many older tractor engines simply do not run fast enough to excite those big "1 wire" alternators.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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