The BAT wire from your "1 wire" alternator goes to one post on the ammeter, the same post as the ignition switch and light switch connect to. The other ammeter post connects to the battery, likely at the starter switch. The alternator must be connected through the ammeter to give you a charge indicator.
Do you really have a 110 amp "1wire"alternator ?? If so, I would ask why did you get one that large? A 110 amp alternator is too large for the wiring and ammeter on your tractor. Also a 37 amp "1 wire alternator will excite(start charging) at less than 1/2 the rpm of a 60, 72 or 110 amp 1 wire alternator. Your tractor engine may not run fast enough to excite a high amp "1 wire " alternator. If you do have a very high amp "1 wire" alternator, I would exchange it for a 37 amp model, it will serve you much better unless you have a very large electrical accessory load that requires that many amps. I fault the parts store for only wstocking very large amp "1 wire" alternators. They can often stock only the large ones, as they can substitute a larg alternator for a small alternator application. Fine for a high rpm automotive engine, but many older tractor engines simply do not run fast enough to excite those big "1 wire" alternators.
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Today's Featured Article - Tuning-Up Your Tractor: Plugs & Compression Testing - by Curtis Von Fange. The engine seems to run rough. In the exhaust you can hear an occasion 'poofing' sound like somethings not firing on all cylinders. Under loaded conditions the tractor seems to lack power and it belches black smoke out of the exhaust. For some reason it just doesn't want to start up without cranking and cranking the starter. All these conditions can be signals that your unit is in need of a tune up. Ok, so what is involved in a tune up? You say, swap plugs and file the points....now tha
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