I am also no expert on the newer stuff, but doesn't the voltage regulator (internal or external, doesn't matter) also do current regulation? I have revived many "bad" mechanical regulators and there are three coils, the cutout to isolate the battery when the genny is not putting out, the voltage regulator coil which sets max voltage, and the third is the current regulator coil to limit max current. I would thing a modern alternator would do the same to protect itself. The standard cranking battery could be very low from leaving the lights on, but still be able to start the motor, and would have a high initial draw when charging.
I agree that the more load put on the alternator could cause it to fail sooner. More current, more heat in the diodes, and more brush wear.
If it was my RV, I would get the largest output alternator I could and install an isolator and do away with any manual switching. If possible, wire the voltage sense for the regulator to the main battery side of the isolator so the alternator puts out a slightly higher voltage to make up for the diode drop in the isolator. I had a Ford truck setup with a 140 amp alternator, internally regulated with an external sense, with the second battery to run my ham radio stuff. Worked really well. I had a solenoid wired so I could crank off the second battery, a deep cycle type.
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Today's Featured Article - Grain Threshing in the Early 40's - by Jerry D. Coleman. How many of you can sit there and say that you have plowed with a mule? Well I would say not many, but maybe a few. This story is about the day my Grandfather Brown (true name) decided along with my parents to purchase a new Ford tractor. It wasn't really new except to us. The year was about 1967 and my father found a good used Ford 601 tractor to use on the farm instead of "Bob", our old mule. Now my grandfather had had this mule since the mid 40's and he was getting some age on him. S
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