Back in the days of mechanical regulators they had voltage and current limits and were controlled by intermittent metallic contacts. They were either closed or open and basically no series resistance causing heat buildup....prettymuch.
Most of the solid state voltage regulators of which I am aware in today's equipment have a series pass solid state element mounted on a heat sink which does both also but being a series element has resistance and hence power loss/heat as you are aware.
The only thing you have to worry about in high amperage is heat build up and you know that. If the radiator fan is providing adequate air across the alternator it may keep the temp in check.
Solid state parts do good up to about 100C (212F) and after that go to pot fast. With the engine thermostat holding the cooling fluid to around 250F and the alternator being cooled by the radiator fan, I don't see much chance for the regulator or rectifier diodes for that matter even though there are 6 of them to share the load to stay below 212F.
You are talking about a lot of power and not an intermittent bring the vehicles storage battery back to full after a hard start kind of thing for which I'm sure the alternators were designed. Continuous loads are usually a lot less than the rating.
In purchasing new or rebuilt alternators for your vehicle the ones I've purchased have a warning that you should charge your battery before installing the new battery; gives you a hint on what I just said.
Even though you have an amperage rating on your alternator I would assume that is the max instantaneous output and not the CW rating.
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