Posted by RodInNS on July 01, 2014 at 20:36:20 from (216.118.158.123):
In Reply to: Two Ford Questions... posted by Bryce Frazier on July 01, 2014 at 20:24:27:
Break the 4000 at the transmission/rear end coupling. The only real reason you need to open it is to reconnect the suction strainer when you reinstall the pump.... The pump itself is bolted to the right side of the housing. The main complication in removing it is getting the outlet line from the top of the pump to slide up into the flow control valve... there is a circlip on the tube that you slide down to facilitate that. Make sure you scrape all the old gasket off from behind the pump and install a new one... That's how you change a pump... better question might be... if you haven't gotten the old one out yet or pressure tested it... how do you know it's bad? There's a few other problems that are far more common that bad pumps on those tractors...
In terms of plows... a mounted 4-16 is about all the 5000 could hope to lift or pull. That may even be more than it will want for traction in some places though power will be fine. a 2 bottom rollover is plenty for it to lift... Purpose of a rollover is that you can plow from one side of a field to the other with no dead furrows or crowns. Keeps the field smoother... Some will argue they're quicker. Personally I think that's very debatable if someone lays their crowns/splits out correctly and doesn't work too wide of a land.
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Today's Featured Article - Tuning-Up Your Tractor: Plugs & Compression Testing - by Curtis Von Fange. The engine seems to run rough. In the exhaust you can hear an occasion 'poofing' sound like somethings not firing on all cylinders. Under loaded conditions the tractor seems to lack power and it belches black smoke out of the exhaust. For some reason it just doesn't want to start up without cranking and cranking the starter. All these conditions can be signals that your unit is in need of a tune up. Ok, so what is involved in a tune up? You say, swap plugs and file the points....now tha
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