I'm surprised no one has mentioned how semis power trailer liftgate batteries,and,that your trailer is built without . I read below that you don't want to wire all your trucks that pull these trailers, and don't want to use battery cable.But,you are overloading your circuit:that is why you blow fuses.At the very least,if your batteries stay charged enough to run your winch and dove tail, you need to disconnect the plug while using them.A 30 amp breaker is not enough and your wiring is not heavy enough, if it is 14ga. On semis,there is a separate power cord direct from the batteries,either double pole or single pole,with single pole grounding thru trailer hitch.(Double pole is better!)This system uses a 150 amp breaker and 4 guage cable. Then on the trailer is another 150a breaker at the batteries. Yes,there are corrosion problems, but there is a spray product to spray on all terminals called Glyptol, expensive, but it works. Battery cables and connections are maintenance items:they must be checked when you pm a vehicle.You already have to keep up with the motor and solenoid terminals anyway. This system works very well,as it is the industry standard.I kinda doubt the small guage wiring of your factory plug would adequatley ever recharge your batteries without frying sooner or later,unless you barely use your winch or dove tail, and it seems the winch could get used for several minutes at a time,which would be a big amperage draw.Good luck,whatever you decide;let us know.Mark
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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