Since the rockshaft has never worked for you here are two things you can check.
If the hydraulics were last used to operate a remote cylinder, the metering screw on the valve housing may have been left turned all the way "in". Remove the 1" long cap nut on the left side of the valve housing and loosen the jam nut. Then see if the metering screw is turned all the way "in". For rockshaft operation the metering screw should be turned 2 turns "out" from the fully seated position.
If the tractor had a "live" pump installed before you got the tractor, the idler gear in the pto driven pump may not have been reinstalled when the live pump was removed. Look at the drain plug on the bottom of the rockshaft housing. If the plug is 3/4" instead of the original 1/2" a live pump was probably installed at sometime in the past. If so, remove the pto shaft seal housing and the pump cover and see if the idler gear is there.
You can look at the A parts catalog (PC675) at jdparts.com. Check pages 124 and 126.
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Today's Featured Article - Tuning-Up Your Tractor: Plugs & Compression Testing - by Curtis Von Fange. The engine seems to run rough. In the exhaust you can hear an occasion 'poofing' sound like somethings not firing on all cylinders. Under loaded conditions the tractor seems to lack power and it belches black smoke out of the exhaust. For some reason it just doesn't want to start up without cranking and cranking the starter. All these conditions can be signals that your unit is in need of a tune up. Ok, so what is involved in a tune up? You say, swap plugs and file the points....now tha
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