Posted by Geo-TH,In on June 14, 2015 at 09:47:05 from (172.78.127.63):
Used a 10 ft wood ramp I made to load my mule in trailer. It worked well to get front wheels off the ground enough I could slide under to change oil. I also lifted back end with jack to level thing out and used floor jacks for safety. Easy, fast and way cheaper than taking it to the Honda dealer. My one and only dealer oil change was when it was new and under warranty. It cost over $165. 2 qts of gear lub in rear end, 2 qts of engine oil and filter, and 1/2 qt in front axle. I change all oils at 75 hrs. Engine needed it, front trans-axle really needed it and the rear axle not so much. Oil is cheaper than parts for this girl.
I also changed the full synthetic oil in my terramite, 20 hp kohler. I put 90 hrs on oil and unlike regular oil the engine starts using oil after 60 hrs. Oil looked dark as you can see in pic. No build up under valve cover. I even show oil cap next to dirty oil. Engine hadn't started using oil either. Cost wise it's about the same. Only saving is the filter. Regular oil I would change it 3 times, synthetic 2 times. I buy brand name regular oil of $2 on sale and synthetic for $3 on sale. That's when I buy the limit and store it in the barn.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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