Posted by Geo-TH,In on June 14, 2015 at 09:47:05 from (172.78.127.63):
Used a 10 ft wood ramp I made to load my mule in trailer. It worked well to get front wheels off the ground enough I could slide under to change oil. I also lifted back end with jack to level thing out and used floor jacks for safety. Easy, fast and way cheaper than taking it to the Honda dealer. My one and only dealer oil change was when it was new and under warranty. It cost over $165. 2 qts of gear lub in rear end, 2 qts of engine oil and filter, and 1/2 qt in front axle. I change all oils at 75 hrs. Engine needed it, front trans-axle really needed it and the rear axle not so much. Oil is cheaper than parts for this girl.
I also changed the full synthetic oil in my terramite, 20 hp kohler. I put 90 hrs on oil and unlike regular oil the engine starts using oil after 60 hrs. Oil looked dark as you can see in pic. No build up under valve cover. I even show oil cap next to dirty oil. Engine hadn't started using oil either. Cost wise it's about the same. Only saving is the filter. Regular oil I would change it 3 times, synthetic 2 times. I buy brand name regular oil of $2 on sale and synthetic for $3 on sale. That's when I buy the limit and store it in the barn.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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