You're welcome, thanks for the feedback. INDEED a fouling plug appears to be the problem and by adding the extra spark gap you described, the plug can still fire for reasons I explained below.
NOTE ABOUT PLUGS (AS I recall but I didn't look it up again and I tend to forget grrrrrrrr so no warranty)
Autolite 386 is a RESISTOR PLUG Autolite 388 is a slightly "Hotter" RESISTOR PLUG Autolite 3116 is a NON RESISTOR PLUG in the approximate heat range of those above and is what Id definitely recommend when a Magneto Ignition is used.
UNLESS I remembered all that bass ackwards (resistor versus non resistor plugs)
A carbon fouled plug (gray sooty) can be the result of an over rich fuel mixture or running at low engine temperatures, while if the coating is more of a black shiny coating that may be caused by an oil burner.
To help reduce plug fouling it helps to NOT run over rich,,,,,,,,,,operate at engine temps like 170 minimum up to 200 degrees, avoid long idle periods.
If I were using a Resistor Plug, Id opt for the hotter Autolite 388 but if a NON Resistor Plug Id use 3116
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Today's Featured Article - Timing Your Magneto Ignition Tractor - by Chris Pratt. If you have done major engine work or restored your tractor, chances are you removed the magneto and spark plug wires and eventually reached the point where you had to put it all back together and make it run. On our first cosmetic restoration, not having a manual, we carefully marked the wires, taped the magneto in the position it came off, and were careful not to turn the engine over while we had these components off. We thought we could get by with this since the engine ran perfectly and would not need any internal work. After the cleanup and painting was done, we began reassembly and finally came to t
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