You're welcome, thanks for the feedback. INDEED a fouling plug appears to be the problem and by adding the extra spark gap you described, the plug can still fire for reasons I explained below.
NOTE ABOUT PLUGS (AS I recall but I didn't look it up again and I tend to forget grrrrrrrr so no warranty)
Autolite 386 is a RESISTOR PLUG Autolite 388 is a slightly "Hotter" RESISTOR PLUG Autolite 3116 is a NON RESISTOR PLUG in the approximate heat range of those above and is what Id definitely recommend when a Magneto Ignition is used.
UNLESS I remembered all that bass ackwards (resistor versus non resistor plugs)
A carbon fouled plug (gray sooty) can be the result of an over rich fuel mixture or running at low engine temperatures, while if the coating is more of a black shiny coating that may be caused by an oil burner.
To help reduce plug fouling it helps to NOT run over rich,,,,,,,,,,operate at engine temps like 170 minimum up to 200 degrees, avoid long idle periods.
If I were using a Resistor Plug, Id opt for the hotter Autolite 388 but if a NON Resistor Plug Id use 3116
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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