As I read below, you only paid $1000 for the car, so there would be some problems to be expected.
Do you live in an emissions inspection county? If so, and the $39.50 was for a state inspection, and they inspected and passed the car, then they are clearly and seriously in violation providing a fraudulent inspection! If the fee was for an in house inspection, their ethics would be in question, would be difficult to do much about it other than make a complaint.
As for the gauges going full swing, that is normal. It is a self test, if you watch them and see one that does not make the full travel, then you know something is wrong with that gauge. It should do it every time it is started.
As for the check engine light, probably someone removed the lamp. Replace the lamp, it should come on with the ignition on, engine not running. Then take it to Orileys, get them to "clear all codes". Then drive it a few days. If/when the light comes on, take it back and check the codes again. Then address those issues in order of importance.
As for the brake sensors, if that code come up again, check the front wheel bearings for looseness or roughness, check the sensor for metal filings. Try cleaning the sensors, inspect the wiring, cneck the connections at the ABS module.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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