Also, what about the joists that your deck boards are going on? You ARE treating those also, right??
Personally, I like the look and feel of natural wood, and was raised with yellow pine in SE Texas. First thing, if the wood is nice and dry (use a moisture meter - they can be bought for cheap nowdays), then I would first seal everything with a waterproofer such as Duck's Back or ________? Then once the waterproofer has had ample time for two coats to dry, I would then decide whether or not to paint the deck.
Regardless of what anyone may tell you, paint is NOT a water proofing compound! All it does is retard the passage of moisture, albeit sometimes to a great degree. Treated boards also do not have waterproofing. The term "treated" refers to being treated against insects, unless "specifically" noted. Also, when treating the end grain, a good tip is to let the ends soak in waterproofer for a few hours, as end grain accepts moisture easier than other parts of the board.
Linseed oil is another great choice, but again, also treat the floor joists. Remember to re-coat every year or two, or according to mfgr. directions. But using 2 coats of waterproofer followed by quality paint will make your boards as waterproof as you can get. The reason for paint is to protect the waterproofer from UV light, which is what breaks down the waterproofing sealer over time. Even if it says UV protected, this is still only temporary, as light is still able to get through.
Again, start with "dry" lumber - ideally less than 10%MC for deck purposes, then treat the lumber as though it is to be used on a fishing pier. You'll have a deck to enjoy for many years to come!
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