I've never used the rubber plug type caps. The spring loaded Bearing Buddy type have a bypass hole to try to keep too much pressure off the seal, but it is still easy to push grease past the seal, or blow it out. Got to be real careful! Bearings are not intended to run packed completely full of grease, they tend to overheat, with no room for expansion the grease has to go somewhere, so it pushes past the seal.
Getting water in trailer bearings is not a real big problem under normal use. But boat trailers, or any time the axle gets submerged, nearly impossible to keep it out. What happens is the air and grease inside the hub are hot and expanded, it hits cold water, contracts, and sucks the water right in!
As for China bearings, I wouldn't be too afraid of them. Nearly all bearings are imported.
Here is a chart with common bearing numbers and dimensions. You can check the measurements of the old bearings, get the correct numbers for replacement.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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