Do you have an air hammer??? Put one of the nuts on the stud sticking out if the cylinder head. Hold the hammer at a right angle to the stud. Hold the hammer anvil on the flat of the nut. It can be lose on the bolt. Your just using it to protect the threads. Hammer in all the different ways you can around the stud in a circle. This will help knock the rust lose between the stud and the head.
You have actually made it harder with the PB blaster. If you had not used it then the rust would have turned to dust and you can blow it out with an air nozzle. Any type of penetrating oil/lube does little to nothing on things stuck tight together. The gap is sealed. If you can wiggle it then the penetrating oil will help. On things stuck hard the oil just binds the rust to were it is harder to get out.
If you do not have an air hammer then you can do the same thing with a hammer and punch. Your wanting to knock the stud sideways so the rust will loosen in the head. Do not try hammering straight down on the stud and all you will do it batter it in the head harder.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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