Do you have an air hammer??? Put one of the nuts on the stud sticking out if the cylinder head. Hold the hammer at a right angle to the stud. Hold the hammer anvil on the flat of the nut. It can be lose on the bolt. Your just using it to protect the threads. Hammer in all the different ways you can around the stud in a circle. This will help knock the rust lose between the stud and the head.
You have actually made it harder with the PB blaster. If you had not used it then the rust would have turned to dust and you can blow it out with an air nozzle. Any type of penetrating oil/lube does little to nothing on things stuck tight together. The gap is sealed. If you can wiggle it then the penetrating oil will help. On things stuck hard the oil just binds the rust to were it is harder to get out.
If you do not have an air hammer then you can do the same thing with a hammer and punch. Your wanting to knock the stud sideways so the rust will loosen in the head. Do not try hammering straight down on the stud and all you will do it batter it in the head harder.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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