Some may disagree with this but here goes. Put the nuts back on all the studs surrounding the rusted one. Tighten those down good and tight. Then take the rusted stud nut put it on and torque it to the spec or maybe ten ft. pounds over. Then give it a treatment on the nut flats with the air hammer as suggested by JD. Then remove and spray with the PB blaster again. My theory is maybe this will give the stud some slight movement in the head to break free. Just as when trying to loosen pistons rusted in a cylinder. Many folks say.. I pounded up from the bottom side until I was blue in the face did not budge. If possible I first try to pound them down, generally you have a better swing at them and can put something on top to give a good solid transfer of the shock of the blow. Once you got a little movement your penetrating juice can get in that space and do its job.
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Today's Featured Article - When Push Comes to Shove - by Dave Patterson. When I was a “kid” (still am to a deree) about two I guess, my parents couldn’t find me one day. They were horrified (we lived by the railroad), my mother thought the worst: "He’s been run over by a train, he’s gone forever!" Where did they find me? Perched up on the seat of the tractor. I’d probably plowed about 3000 acres (in my head anyway) by the time they found me. This is where my love for tractors started and has only gotten worse in my tender 50 yrs on this “green planet”. I’m par
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