Problems with new points and condensers are very common now. The quality is just not there.
But take a close look at the distributor. Check for side play in the shaft and mechanical advance mechanism. There must be very little movement, otherwise the points will not stay set. Also look for wear on the cam. Points that are run out of adjustment will be very short lived due to arcing and overheating.
Also look at the vacuum advance mechanism (if equipped). Be sure it is not loose or moving the point setting when vacuum is applied. If you can find a dwell meter, you can check the dwell running at different RPM. It should hold steady at 28*. If it varies, there is a distributor problem.
As for the resistor, I doubt it has one being a 6 volt. But easy to tell, with the ignition on, points closed, check the voltage on the battery side of the coil. If it is near battery voltage, there is no resistor. If it is down around 4 volts or less, there is a resistor.
A 6 volt coil should have about 1.5 ohms resistance across the primary terminals, out of circuit.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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