But check the adjustment, especially the rears. The rear should be self adjusting, but real common for the adjusters to freeze up. To check the adjustment, you can pry the adjuster forward and backward through the adjuster hole. There should be minimal movement. It it moves more than about 1/8" they are too loose. Try turning the adjuster, it should ratchet one direction, toward the tight position. If they won't turn they will need to come apart and be freed up. If stuck for a long time there may be a worn spot on the teeth, the adjuster components will need to be replaced. While in there be a good idea to replace or service the wheel cylinders. Even if not leaking, at that age they can't be good for long.
A good way to tell if there is air in the system, have an assistant pump the brakes up to good pedal. Open the master cylinder and look in with a flashlight. Release the pedal and watch for a fountain of fluid to come up in the reservoir. A small swell of fluid is normal, but an ongoing fountain is the result of expanding air in the system.
There should be a bleeder on the hydro boost unit, where the line out to the wheels connects, and there may be a bleeder on the master cylinder. Bleed those first, then go to each rear wheel, then the fronts.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulic Basics - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In the last entry to this series we gave a brief overview of hydraulic system theory, its basic components and how it works. Now lets take a look at some general maintenance tips that will keep our system operating to its fullest potential. The two biggest enemies to a hydraulic system are dirt and water. Dirt can score the insides of cylinders, spool valves and pumps. Wate
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