Posted by pburchett on March 11, 2019 at 06:54:02 from (170.185.157.19):
I got the tractor split and the clutch and pressure plate out, and the bell housing cleaned up. I will replace the transmission input shaft seal and the gasket below that unless someone recommends leaving it alone. I figured it was about time to leak and this would save come work later on.
I think the oil is coming from the rear main and a little has leaked down from the valve cover gasket which recently decided to let go.
The 9 inch clutch disk is 1.3mm thick to the rivets. The manual says to replace at 0.3mm so that only leaves 1mm of thickness so that definitely needs replaced. I see YT has 2 different types of clutches. Which type is best? The smooth organic or the one with the lines in the friction material?
The pressure plate currently in the tractor may not be original as I could not find the ford logo on it but it is an AETNA brand that matches the clutch and bearings which was probably replaced as a set earlier on. This pressure plate has the adjustable fingers and is weighted. Most aftermarket I have seen do not have the adjustable fingers and some do not have the weights. Which is best or will it matter?
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Today's Featured Article - Grain Threshing in the Early 40's - by Jerry D. Coleman. How many of you can sit there and say that you have plowed with a mule? Well I would say not many, but maybe a few. This story is about the day my Grandfather Brown (true name) decided along with my parents to purchase a new Ford tractor. It wasn't really new except to us. The year was about 1967 and my father found a good used Ford 601 tractor to use on the farm instead of "Bob", our old mule. Now my grandfather had had this mule since the mid 40's and he was getting some age on him. S
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