When removing the bearing races, punch them out straight, punch one side, then the other, then the other until out. Same thing going in, keep them straight, be sure they bottom fully.
You'll want to "pack" the grease into the bearing. Put a glob of grease in the palm of your hand, hold the bearing with the wide end of the roller cage against your palm, and rake grease into cage area until you see it come out the other end of the rollers, keep turning the bearing until it is full all the way around.
The "center" they are talking about not filling with grease is the cavity inside the hub between the bearings.
The felt seals can go back dry. If the kit came with rubber seals, they will need a light wipe of grease on the lip.
When tightening the nut, it's best to go to the loose side when fitting the cotter pin. You don't want it tight.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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